Dr Yasmin's This or That: The Treatment Choices She Really Made

My This or That: The Treatment Choices I Really Made

Every so often we like to put our doctors on the spot. No long consultation, no time to hedge, just a quick round of This or That where we have to pick a favourite between two treatments and commit. It sounds simple. In practice, when you know how much every treatment can do for the right person, choosing one over another is genuinely hard.

As the founder of Wellface, I took the challenge with Dr Olivia McCormack cheering (and occasionally disagreeing) from the sidelines. Some of my answers came instantly. Others made me pause and admit that the honest reply was "it depends on the patient". That, really, is the whole point. A good aesthetic doctor doesn't have one blanket answer for everyone, because faces, skin types and goals are all different.

So here is the full round, along with the reasoning I actually use when weighing these treatments up. Think of it less as a definitive ranking and more as a window into how I think when I plan a treatment for you.

Anti-wrinkle or filler? My answer: anti-wrinkle

This one came quickly. Anti-wrinkle injections were my pick, and it's easy to understand why so many doctors feel the same. Anti-wrinkle treatment works by softening the muscles that create dynamic lines, the creases that appear when you frown, raise your eyebrows or smile. Relax those muscles a little and the overlying skin gets a chance to smooth out, while the lines that are only just starting to etch in are held at bay.

Part of the appeal is how much control it gives. A skilled injector can soften expression without freezing it, so you still look like you, just a bit fresher and less tired. It's also one of the most studied treatments in aesthetics, with a long track record and a very predictable result when it's placed well.

Filler has its own important place, of course. It restores volume that has been lost over time, refines contours and supports areas that have started to flatten or descend. The reason many doctors reach for anti-wrinkle first is that it tackles the earliest, most common signs of ageing around the eyes and forehead, and it does so with a light touch. When I pick it, I'm not dismissing filler. I'm saying that for the widest range of people, a small amount of muscle relaxation gives the most natural improvement for the least intervention.

PRP or exosomes? My answer: exosomes

Here the game moved into regenerative territory, and I went with exosomes. Both treatments belong to the same family of skin rejuvenation, but they get there by different routes.

PRP, or platelet-rich plasma, uses your own blood. We take a small sample, spin it in a centrifuge to concentrate the platelets and growth factors, then reintroduce that concentrate into the skin, often alongside microneedling. It's a beautiful idea because everything comes from you, so there's essentially no risk of an allergic reaction. The catch is that the strength of your PRP depends on you. Age, general health and how well you're hydrated on the day all influence how many growth factors that sample contains.

Exosomes take a different approach. They are tiny messenger vesicles that carry growth factors, proteins and signalling molecules, and they are prepared in a laboratory to a consistent concentration. Because they don't rely on your own blood, every treatment delivers a similar, reliable dose of those regenerative signals to the skin cells. Patients often report calmer, faster healing and a nice lift in hydration and skin density. That consistency and the extra signalling power are almost certainly what tipped me towards exosomes. It's newer than PRP and the evidence base is still growing, but as a way to encourage the skin to repair and rebuild, it's an exciting option.

Hydrafacial or chemical peel? My answer: start with a Hydrafacial

This was the first genuine pause. My instinct was to begin with a Hydrafacial, while making the point that a chemical peel absolutely has its place for the right patient.

A Hydrafacial is the gentler, more universal choice. It cleanses, exfoliates and extracts, then floods the skin with hydrating serums, all in one session with no downtime. You can have one before an event and walk out glowing straight away. That's exactly why it's such a good starting point. It suits almost every skin type, it's comfortable, and it gives an immediate, visible freshness.

A chemical peel works harder and deeper. By applying a controlled acid solution, we prompt the outer layers of skin to shed and renew, which is where peels really shine for concerns like pigmentation, uneven texture, dullness and congestion. The trade-off is that peels can involve a period of flaking or sensitivity, and the strength has to be matched carefully to your skin and your history. So my answer makes complete sense. Start most people on a Hydrafacial to build a healthy base, then bring in a peel when there's a specific concern that needs that deeper reset.

Profhilo or polynucleotides? My answer: Profhilo (with a friendly disagreement)

I'll admit I'm a Profhilo lover, and this is where Dr Olivia would have politely voted the other way for polynucleotides. Both are injectable skin quality treatments rather than fillers, and neither is trying to add volume or change your shape. They improve the skin itself.

What Profhilo does

Profhilo is an ultra-pure, high-concentration hyaluronic acid that's placed at a small number of strategic points across the face. Rather than plumping one spot, it spreads through the tissue, drawing in water and deeply hydrating the skin from within. As it does so, it also gently stimulates collagen and elastin. The result is a fresher, more supple, better-quality skin surface, with people often noticing more bounce and glow within a couple of weeks. It's typically done as two sessions about four weeks apart, then maintained. For someone whose main complaints are dehydration, dullness and early laxity, it's a lovely, reliable treatment. That's why it's my soft spot.

What polynucleotides do

Polynucleotides work through a different mechanism. Derived from purified DNA fragments, they act as biostimulators, encouraging skin cells to regenerate and repair at a deeper level. They support the skin's own renewal processes, help improve texture and elasticity, and are particularly well regarded for delicate areas like the under-eye. Results tend to come on more gradually over a couple of months, but they can be long lasting, and a short course of sessions is usual.

So who's right, me or Dr Olivia? Both of us. Profhilo leans towards immediate hydration and radiance, polynucleotides lean towards deeper regeneration and repair. Plenty of patients do best with a plan that uses both at different stages. The disagreement is really just two doctors emphasising two different strengths, which is exactly the kind of conversation you want happening about your face.

Morpheus8 or microneedling? My answer: Morpheus8, definitely

No hesitation on this one. Both treatments create tiny channels in the skin to trigger collagen production, but Morpheus8 adds a second dimension that changes what's possible.

Standard microneedling uses fine needles to make micro-injuries at the surface and in the upper layers of skin, which kick-starts a wound-healing response and fresh collagen. It's excellent for texture, fine lines and general skin quality, and it pairs beautifully with serums, PRP or exosomes.

Morpheus8 goes further by delivering radiofrequency energy through those microneedles into the deeper layers of the skin. That heat remodels tissue and tightens from within, so as well as improving surface texture it can address laxity, help firm the jawline and refine areas that have started to soften. In other words, it does much of what microneedling does and then adds a tightening effect that needles alone can't reach. When your goal includes firmness and contour rather than just surface polish, Morpheus8 is the more powerful tool, and that's why it was an instant pick.

Products or treatments? My answer: honestly, both

The final question was meant to force a single choice, and I refused to play along, which is arguably the most doctorly answer of all. Products and in-clinic treatments aren't rivals. They're two halves of the same result.

Think of it this way. A treatment like Morpheus8, a peel or Profhilo does something your skin can't do on its own, creating a step-change in quality or firmness. But you only see your skin professionally now and then. Your medical-grade skincare is what works on it every single morning and night in between. Good actives such as vitamin A, vitamin C, well-formulated antioxidants and daily SPF protect the results you've paid for, keep collagen ticking over and often make the next treatment work better. Skip the homecare and you're asking your treatments to do all the heavy lifting alone. Use both together and each one amplifies the other. So "both" isn't a cop-out. It's the correct answer.

Common questions about choosing between treatments

If two doctors disagree, how do I know what's right for me?

A difference of opinion between me and Dr Olivia usually reflects two valid routes to a similar goal rather than one being wrong. In a consultation we assess your skin, your concerns and your lifestyle, then recommend the option that fits you specifically. The disagreement in the reel is a bit of fun. Your plan is tailored.

Do I have to pick just one treatment?

Rarely. Most of the pairings above actually work well in combination or in sequence. Profhilo and polynucleotides can complement each other, exosomes enhance microneedling and Morpheus8, and a Hydrafacial keeps skin healthy between deeper treatments. I often build a plan across the year rather than choosing a single hero treatment.

I'm completely new to all of this. Where should I start?

Start with a consultation and, for many people, a Hydrafacial and a proper skincare review. Getting your daily routine right and your skin healthy makes everything that follows more effective. From there we can introduce more targeted treatments as needed.

Are these treatments suitable for men too?

Yes. Everything mentioned here is used for men as well as women. The principles are the same, though the approach is tailored to suit different skin thickness, facial structure and goals.

How long before I see results?

It varies by treatment. Anti-wrinkle results settle over one to two weeks, a Hydrafacial glow is immediate, Profhilo shows within a couple of weeks, and polynucleotides, Morpheus8 and exosomes build more gradually over weeks to months as collagen and skin quality improve.

Come and make your own choices with me

The fun of This or That is that there's no single right answer, only the right answer for you. The best way to find yours is to sit down with me and talk it through properly. At Wellface, our team including me and Dr Olivia McCormack will assess your skin, listen to what's bothering you and put together a plan that might use one of these treatments or a considered combination of several.

If you'd like to see which treatments you'd actually pick once you understand them, book a consultation with me at our Cobham, Esher or Wimbledon clinics. I'll give you an honest, doctor-led recommendation with no pressure, just clear advice about what will genuinely suit your face.