Wellface
Book Online
← The Wellface Journal
Lip Fillers · Lip Volume & Shape

Lip Fillers Done the Wellface Way: Subtle Volume, Natural Shape and Balance

YT Dr Yasmin Tayeb Published 3 October 2024 · 9 min read

There's a moment in almost every lip appointment when a patient looks in the mirror for the first time and their whole face lifts. Not because their lips are suddenly huge, but because they look like themselves on a very good day. That reaction is the point. When lip filler is done thoughtfully, nobody should be able to say what you've had done. They just notice you look well.

Follow @wellface on Instagram

A recent patient came to me with a lovely bottom lip, full and beautifully shaped with no asymmetry. Her top lip, though, had started to lose its contour. She had a gorgeous cupid's bow that was quietly falling inwards, the sort of subtle change that happens gradually and then one day you notice it in photos. She didn't need volume for the sake of volume. She needed a small pick-me-up to the top lip and a touch of hydration and balance centrally to the bottom, and that was it.

That approach, reading the lips before touching them, is what separates a natural result from an obvious one. Below I walk through how lip fillers actually work, what a session with me looks like, how I think about shape and balance, and what to expect in the days and weeks afterwards.

What lip fillers actually are and how they work

Most modern lip fillers are made from hyaluronic acid, a sugar molecule that already exists naturally throughout your skin and connective tissue. Its job in the body is to hold on to water, which is why it plumps and hydrates so well. Because it's something your tissues recognise, a good quality hyaluronic acid filler integrates softly into the lip rather than sitting on top of it as a foreign lump.

When I inject it into specific parts of the lip, it does two things at once. It adds a small amount of physical volume where volume has been lost, and it draws water into the area, which is where that soft, hydrated look comes from. Different products have different thicknesses and behaviours, so a filler chosen to define a crisp lip border is not the same as one chosen for gentle central hydration. Matching the product to the job is part of the skill.

One of the reasons hyaluronic acid has become the standard for lips is that it's reversible. If a result is ever too much, or if filler settles unevenly, it can be dissolved with an enzyme called hyaluronidase. That safety net matters, and it's one of the reasons we only use hyaluronic acid products for lip work at Wellface.

Why I don't treat every lip the same way

It would be quicker to have a single technique and apply it to everyone. It would also look terrible. Lips are personal, and the same amount of filler in two different people produces two completely different results.

The first thing I look at is the ratio between the top and bottom lip. A widely quoted guide is roughly one part top lip to one and a half parts bottom lip, but that's a starting reference rather than a rule. In the patient I mentioned, the bottom was already fuller than the top, so adding volume to the bottom would have pushed her further out of balance. The top needed the attention. Only once the top was refreshed did I look again at the bottom and ask a simple question: does this now need anything at all, or just a small central touch to finish it off?

Shape matters as much as size. The cupid's bow, the philtral columns that run from the nose to the lip, the crispness of the vermilion border, the way the corners sit. All of these contribute to whether a lip reads as youthful and defined or slightly tired. Often the fix isn't more product. It's a tiny amount placed precisely to restore a line that has softened over time.

Reading the whole face, not just the mouth

A lip never exists in isolation. During that appointment I kept coming back to the rest of the face, the chin, the cheekbones, the eyes, precisely because the lips have to sit in proportion to everything around them. If you over-fill a lip on a delicate face, you drag attention downwards and unbalance features that were lovely to begin with. The aim is for the lips to sit in place with good contour, not to shout for attention. Restraint, in other words, is a clinical decision, not just a matter of taste.

What a lip filler appointment at Wellface involves

Everything starts with a proper consultation. Before any needle comes out, I'll talk through what's bothering you, look at your lips at rest and while you talk and smile, and check your medical history and any medications that might increase bruising. This is also the moment to be honest about the look you want, whether that's barely-there definition or a fuller, more noticeable plump. I'll tell you what I think will suit your face, and if I don't think a treatment is right for you I'll say so.

On the day, the lips are cleaned and a topical numbing cream is usually applied to take the edge off. Many hyaluronic acid fillers also contain a small amount of local anaesthetic, so comfort improves further once the treatment begins. The filler is placed with either a fine needle or a blunt-tipped cannula, depending on the area and the effect I'm after, and gentle massage helps it distribute evenly and symmetrically. The injecting itself is usually quick, often around fifteen to thirty minutes, though I never rush the assessment that comes before it.

You'll feel some pressure and the occasional sharp sensation, but most patients find it far more manageable than they expected. When it's done, I'll show you the result, talk through aftercare, and book a review, because seeing you again a couple of weeks later is part of how I make sure the outcome is right.

Downtime, swelling and how the result settles

Here's the thing to hold on to. What you see immediately after treatment is not your final result. Lips swell. It's a normal, expected response to being injected, and because hyaluronic acid attracts water, that initial puffiness can make them look bigger and feel firmer than they will once things calm down.

Most of the swelling settles within about forty-eight hours, though it can take a little longer for some people. Mild bruising is possible, especially at injection points, and it fades over several days. The lips soften and the filler integrates over the following one to two weeks, which is why I review at that point rather than judging the result on day one. If you have a wedding, holiday or big event coming up, book your treatment at least two weeks beforehand so everything has time to settle.

In practical terms, downtime is minimal. Plenty of people come in on a lunch break and go back to normal life the same day, perhaps a little swollen. You just won't want a camera in your face that same evening.

Looking after your lips afterwards

Good aftercare protects your comfort in the first couple of days and helps your results last. The advice is simple and worth following.

  • For the first 24 to 48 hours, avoid intense exercise, saunas, steam rooms and hot yoga, since heat and raised blood flow can worsen swelling and bruising. Skip alcohol over the same window for the same reason, and try not to poke or massage the lips unless I've told you to.

Beyond those first days, staying well hydrated helps hyaluronic acid do its job, and a lip balm with SPF protects against sun exposure, which breaks filler down faster. Sleeping slightly propped up on the first night can ease swelling too. If anything worries you, blanching, unusual pain, or swelling that seems to be getting worse rather than better, contact the clinic. Serious complications are rare in trained hands, but I'd always rather you called.

How long lip fillers last

Hyaluronic acid lip fillers generally last somewhere between six and twelve months, with many people sitting around the eight to ten month mark. Lips are one of the most mobile parts of the face, always moving as you talk, eat and smile, so filler there tends to break down a touch faster than in a more static area.

How long yours lasts depends on several things: your metabolism, the specific product used, how much was placed, and your lifestyle. Faster metabolisms, smoking, heavy sun exposure and very active lifestyles all tend to shorten the timeline. Rather than waiting for the filler to disappear completely, most patients come back for a small top-up while some product is still present, which keeps the shape consistent and often means less is needed each time.

Common questions about lip fillers

Will my lips look obviously done?

Not if the treatment is planned around your face. Overdone lips usually come from too much product placed without regard for proportion. My approach is to add only what a lip needs, respect the top to bottom ratio, and keep the result in balance with your chin, cheeks and eyes. Most people around you should simply think you look refreshed.

Does it hurt?

There's some discomfort, but it's well managed. I use topical numbing cream, and most fillers contain local anaesthetic that kicks in as I go. Patients often say the anticipation was worse than the reality.

Can lip filler be reversed?

Yes. Because I use hyaluronic acid, the filler can be dissolved with an enzyme called hyaluronidase if you're unhappy, if it's migrated, or if it simply isn't the look you wanted. That reversibility is a genuine reassurance, particularly if it's your first time.

I only want a little. Is that worth doing?

Absolutely. Some of the most satisfying results come from half a millilitre placed precisely to restore a cupid's bow or add a whisper of central hydration. Subtle work is often more skilled than dramatic work, not less, because there's nowhere to hide.

How soon can I have a top-up?

I'll always see you for a review around two weeks after treatment once everything has settled. If a small adjustment is needed, that's the time to make it. Otherwise, most people return when their result begins to soften, typically several months later.

Come and talk to me about your lips

If your top lip is quietly losing its contour, if your cupid's bow has softened, or if you simply want a little more balance without looking like you've had anything done, the best next step is a proper conversation with me. I'll assess your lips in the context of your whole face and give you an honest view of what will and won't suit you.

Wellface is a doctor-led clinic with branches in Cobham, Esher and Wimbledon. To arrange a consultation with me, get in touch and we'll help you find a time that works. Natural, balanced, and unmistakably you is what I'm aiming for.

Treatments mentioned in this article

Keep reading

View all articles →

Talk it through with a practitioner

Book a consultation and get a plan that’s built for your skin, not your decade.