Polynucleotides: The Regenerative Skin Treatment That Works From Within

Every so often a treatment comes along that shifts how we think about ageing skin. Instead of filling a line or freezing a muscle, it asks the skin to do the repair work itself. Polynucleotides are one of those treatments. They have become a firm favourite at Wellface because they suit such a broad range of patients, from people in their late twenties wanting to protect their skin, to those in their sixties and beyond looking to improve crepiness and quality.

As the founder of Wellface and an advanced aesthetic practitioner, I have been using polynucleotides across our Cobham, Esher and Wimbledon branches for several years. What I keep coming back to is how reliable they are. It's a product I find genuinely delivers for every single patient who walks through the door. Part of that consistency comes from the science, and part of it comes from something less glamorous but just as important: the quality and purity of the product itself, and the training that sits behind it.

This article walks through what polynucleotides actually are, how they work in the skin, what a treatment session feels like, and how to think about whether they are right for you. If you have heard the term but weren't quite sure what it meant, this should clear things up.

What are polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides are short chains of purified DNA fragments. In aesthetics, they are most commonly derived from the DNA of salmon or trout, which happens to be remarkably compatible with human tissue. The raw material is put through a rigorous purification process so that what ends up in the vial is a clean, highly refined biological molecule with the proteins and impurities stripped away. This purity is what makes the treatment so well tolerated and why allergic reactions are so rare.

It helps to think of polynucleotides as a signalling molecule rather than a filler. A dermal filler adds volume by sitting in the tissue and holding its shape. Polynucleotides do something quite different. They act as a biostimulator, which means they prompt your own cells to get to work. They don't change your facial contours or add obvious volume. Instead they improve the underlying quality of the skin, its firmness, hydration and resilience.

The technology behind the leading products, including the Plinest range that we use, is built around highly purified polynucleotides sometimes labelled PN-HPT. There are formulations tailored to different areas and needs. Standard Plinest is used across the face for general rejuvenation. Plinest Eye is a lighter formulation designed for the delicate under-eye area, where the skin is thin and easily bruised. Newest combines polynucleotides with hyaluronic acid for patients who want an added hydration and plumping element alongside the regenerative effect. My team and I are trained across all of these techniques, which allows us to tailor the approach to the individual.

How polynucleotides work in the skin

When polynucleotides are injected into the dermis, they do several things at once. The most important is that they wake up your fibroblasts. Fibroblasts are the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin, the two structural proteins that keep skin firm, springy and youthful. As we age, these cells become sluggish and produce less. Polynucleotides essentially give them a nudge, encouraging them to become more active again.

As the fibroblasts step up their activity, the skin gradually produces more collagen and elastin. The result over the following weeks is skin that looks firmer and feels more elastic, with a smoother texture and a healthier glow. Because this is your own collagen being built, the improvement looks natural and develops slowly rather than appearing overnight.

There is more going on than just collagen. Polynucleotides are strongly hydrating because they help the skin hold onto moisture, which is why patients often notice a plumper, dewier look quite early on. They also have antioxidant properties, mopping up the free radicals that contribute to skin ageing, and a soothing anti-inflammatory effect. This combination of repair, hydration and calming is why the treatment is sometimes described as regenerative rather than cosmetic. It is improving the health of the tissue, not just its appearance.

How this differs from other injectables

Patients often ask how polynucleotides compare to Profhilo or to skin boosters. There is overlap, and they are sometimes used together, but they are not the same. Profhilo is primarily a bioremodelling treatment built around a high concentration of hyaluronic acid that spreads through the tissue to hydrate and stimulate. Skin boosters deliver hyaluronic acid to improve hydration and glow. Polynucleotides work through a different mechanism, focusing on cellular repair and fibroblast stimulation. In practice, I often find polynucleotides particularly useful for skin that is thin, tired, crepey or damaged, and for the under-eye area where few other injectables are suitable. During a consultation my team and I will explain which approach, or which combination, makes the most sense for your skin.

What a polynucleotide treatment involves

A session is quick and straightforward. After a consultation to assess your skin and discuss your goals, I cleanse the area and, if you are having the under-eye or another sensitive area treated, may apply a numbing cream. The polynucleotides are then delivered through a series of small injections, either with a fine needle or a cannula depending on the area. Across the cheeks and face this typically involves a pattern of tiny injection points; around the eyes a more delicate technique is used.

The whole appointment usually takes around thirty minutes. Most people describe the sensation as mild, a series of small pinches rather than anything painful, and the numbing cream makes the eye area comfortable. You may see small raised bumps at the injection sites immediately afterwards, which is completely normal and part of how the product is placed. These usually settle within a few hours to a day.

How many sessions will I need?

Polynucleotides work best as a course rather than a one-off. Most patients start with a series of two to three sessions spaced roughly two to four weeks apart. This spacing allows the fibroblasts to be stimulated repeatedly, building a stronger and longer-lasting result than a single treatment could achieve. After the initial course, many people choose to have a maintenance session every four to six months to keep the improvement topped up. I will recommend a schedule based on your skin, your age and what you are hoping to achieve, so the plan is always personalised rather than one-size-fits-all.

Downtime, aftercare and results

One of the reasons polynucleotides fit so easily into busy lives is the gentle recovery. Aside from the small bumps at the injection points, most people notice very little. There can be some mild redness, tenderness or the occasional small bruise, particularly around the eyes where the skin is delicate, but this is usually easy to cover and settles quickly. Many patients go back to work or carry on with their day straight after.

Aftercare is simple. Avoid touching or massaging the treated area for the rest of the day, keep make-up off freshly injected skin for a few hours, and steer clear of intense heat such as saunas, hot yoga and sunbeds for a couple of days. It is sensible to hold off on strenuous exercise for the first twenty-four hours and to keep alcohol to a minimum, both of which can worsen swelling or bruising. Wearing sunscreen and staying well hydrated will help the skin respond at its best.

As for results, patience pays off. Some patients notice improved hydration and a subtle glow within the first week or two, but the meaningful changes in firmness, texture and elasticity build over the weeks that follow as new collagen forms. The effect tends to peak around a couple of months after completing a course and then holds for several months. Because the treatment is regenerative, the skin often looks genuinely healthier rather than simply plumper, which is exactly the kind of natural outcome most of my patients are after.

Who polynucleotides suit

Part of what makes this treatment so useful is how broadly it applies. I would point out that it is highly effective across different age groups and different skin types and backgrounds, which is not something you can say about every injectable. Younger patients use it as a preventative treatment to keep skin healthy and support collagen before significant ageing sets in. Older patients turn to it for crepey, thinning or sun-damaged skin, dullness and loss of firmness.

The under-eye area deserves a special mention. Thin, dark or crepey skin under the eyes is notoriously difficult to treat, and many products are simply too heavy or risky for that zone. Plinest Eye was designed for exactly this, gently improving the quality and thickness of the skin to soften the tired, hollow look that so many people dislike. It is one of the treatments patients are most delighted with.

Polynucleotides can be used on more than the face too, including the neck, the delicate skin around the mouth, and areas of the body where skin quality has declined. As with any medical treatment there are situations where it isn't suitable, such as during pregnancy or breastfeeding, if you have an active skin infection at the treatment site, or if you have a known sensitivity to fish-derived ingredients. A proper consultation with one of our doctors will confirm whether it is right for you.

Why the product and the training matter

This is where I become especially animated, and it is worth understanding as a patient. Not all polynucleotides are equal. The safety and effectiveness of the treatment depend enormously on how the source material is purified and how well the practitioner is trained to use it. At Wellface the whole team has been trained across the different polynucleotide techniques, and we work with established, reputable products with strong clinical evidence behind them.

For me, as a clinic owner mentoring a team of doctors and practitioners, it matters that we work with manufacturers who genuinely value clinical expertise, research and clear communication. When a product is that safe and reliable, and the support behind it is that good, you can deliver a consistent, high-quality result for every patient. In practice that has meant no adverse reactions and a run of very happy patients, which is precisely the reliability you want from something you are putting into your skin.

As a patient, the takeaway is straightforward. Ask where your polynucleotides come from, how they are purified, and how experienced your practitioner is with them. At a doctor-led clinic those answers should be easy to give.

Common questions about polynucleotides

Are polynucleotides safe?

When a high-quality, purified product is used by a properly trained practitioner, polynucleotides have an excellent safety profile. The DNA fragments are refined to remove proteins and impurities, which is why allergic reactions are rare. At Wellface, my team and I have used them for years without adverse reactions. As with any injectable, minor and temporary effects such as small bumps, redness or occasional bruising can occur.

Do polynucleotides hurt?

Most people find the treatment very tolerable. The injections feel like small pinches, and for sensitive areas such as under the eyes I apply a numbing cream first to keep things comfortable. Any tenderness afterwards is usually mild and short-lived.

How soon will I see results?

You may notice improved hydration and a subtle glow within the first week or two. The firmer, smoother, more elastic skin builds gradually over the following weeks as your own collagen is stimulated, with the fullest effect usually visible around two months after a course is completed.

Can I combine polynucleotides with other treatments?

Yes, and many patients do. Polynucleotides pair well with treatments like Profhilo, skin boosters, anti-wrinkle injections and energy-based devices, because they improve skin quality while other treatments address volume, movement or resurfacing. I will sequence any combination sensibly and advise on timing.

How long do the results last?

After an initial course of two to three sessions, results typically hold for several months. A maintenance session every four to six months keeps the skin looking its best over the longer term. Your individual schedule will depend on your skin and your goals.

Book a polynucleotide consultation at Wellface

If your skin is looking tired, thin or crepey, or you simply want to invest in its long-term health, polynucleotides are well worth a conversation. The best place to start is a consultation, where I can assess your skin, talk through your goals, and put together a plan that genuinely fits you rather than a generic package. I see patients alongside the Wellface team at our clinics in Cobham, Esher and Wimbledon, and I would be glad to help you decide whether this treatment is the right next step. Get in touch to arrange a consultation with me and find out what regenerative skincare could do for you.