Polynucleotides for Under-Eye Circles and Dull Skin: Dr Bianca Coveva Explains

Polynucleotides for Under-Eye Circles and Dull Skin: What I Want You to Know

There's a quiet shift happening in the way people approach their skin. For years the conversation was about volume, filling lines and adding structure. Now more patients are asking a different question: how do I make my actual skin better? Not plumper, not frozen, just healthier. That's the space polynucleotides occupy, and it's exactly why I reach for them so often, especially around the delicate skin of the eyes.

In a recent treatment demonstration, I worked on the area under and around a patient's eyes using a combination of microneedling, exosomes and polynucleotides. If you watched closely you'd have spotted small raised bumps left behind after the injections, what we call blebs. Those little blebs are the product sitting in the skin, quietly getting to work. As I explain it, that placement kick-starts the skin's own wound-healing response, and paired with the ingredients inside the polynucleotides, it delivers a genuine improvement in skin quality rather than a cosmetic cover-up.

This post takes that short reel and opens it right up. What polynucleotides actually are, why they suit tired under-eyes and lacklustre skin so well, what a session feels like, and how the results build over the weeks that follow.

What polynucleotides actually are

Polynucleotides are purified fragments of DNA, most commonly derived from highly refined sources such as salmon or trout, then filtered to a standard suitable for medical use. That origin sounds surprising the first time you hear it, but the reason it works is elegant. These DNA fragments are biologically similar to our own, so the skin recognises them and responds without rejecting them.

Once they're placed into the skin, polynucleotides do two things at once. They act as biostimulators, signalling to the fibroblasts (the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin) to switch back into a more active, youthful mode of working. And they behave like a deep, water-loving scaffold, drawing in and holding moisture across the tissue. The result is skin that's better hydrated on the day, and progressively firmer and more resilient over the following months as new collagen and elastin are laid down.

There's a third quality that matters, particularly around the eyes. Polynucleotides have a soothing, anti-inflammatory and reparative effect. They help calm the skin and support healing from within, which is why they're often chosen for areas that are thin, easily irritated or slow to recover.

How they differ from filler

This is the point I'm keenest to make. Polynucleotides are not fillers. A dermal filler adds volume and structure by sitting in the tissue and physically holding space. Polynucleotides add almost no volume at all. Instead they improve the quality of the skin itself, its texture, tone, bounce and hydration. Nobody looks at a good polynucleotide result and thinks "work has been done". They just look well rested. That's the whole appeal for patients who want to avoid an overdone appearance and simply want their own skin looking its best.

Why the under-eye area responds so well

The skin beneath the eyes is the thinnest on the entire face. It has very little supporting fat or collagen, and it sits directly over a network of fine blood vessels. That combination is why so many of us struggle with dark circles, a bluish or purple tinge, fine crepey lines and a generally tired, hollow look, even when we've slept perfectly well.

A lot of under-eye darkness isn't pigment at all. It's thin, poorly supported skin allowing the vessels underneath to show through, along with a dull, dehydrated surface that no longer reflects light nicely. Filler in this area can help with structural hollows, but it can't fix the quality of thin, tired skin, and in the wrong hands it can look puffy. Polynucleotides take a different route. By thickening and strengthening the skin from the inside, improving its hydration and boosting microcirculation, they can soften that shadowed, exhausted appearance and bring back a smoother, brighter surface.

This is precisely the treatment I demonstrated in the reel. Small, careful injections around the orbital area, each leaving a temporary bleb, deliver the product exactly where the skin needs support. Combined with microneedling and exosomes, the whole approach is aimed at regeneration rather than concealment.

Dull, tired skin and lost glow

The same mechanism that helps the under-eyes helps the rest of the face when it starts to look flat and lifeless. Dullness usually comes down to a few things happening together: slower cell turnover, dehydration, a weakened collagen framework and sluggish circulation. Skin in that state doesn't bounce light back, so it reads as tired and grey regardless of how much highlighter goes on top.

Because polynucleotides work at a cellular level, hydrating deeply and nudging the skin's own repair processes back into gear, they tackle the causes of dullness rather than masking them. Patients tend to describe the outcome as a lit-from-within quality. Skin feels plumper to the touch, makeup sits better, and that healthy glow returns gradually and naturally over the course of treatment.

What a session with polynucleotides involves

An appointment usually runs somewhere between thirty and sixty minutes depending on how many areas are being treated. It always starts with a proper conversation. At our clinics, one of our doctors will look closely at your skin, ask what's bothering you and talk through whether polynucleotides alone are the right call or whether combining them with something else, as I did with microneedling and exosomes, will serve you better.

The product is delivered through a series of tiny injections using a very fine needle, or sometimes a cannula, depending on the area. Numbing cream is applied first to keep things comfortable. Most people describe the sensation as small stings rather than anything painful. Around the eyes and other delicate areas I'll often leave those small blebs of product just under the surface, which is entirely intentional. They flatten and absorb over the hours that follow.

You can expect some redness and a little swelling straight afterwards, and the injection points may stay slightly raised for a short while. For the vast majority of people this settles within a day or two, and many head straight back to work or on with their day.

The role of technique

One detail worth drawing out from the reel is my mention of the "body technique". How and where the product is placed genuinely matters. A thoughtful, layered approach to depth and spacing helps the polynucleotides stimulate collagen and elastin more effectively than simply depositing product and hoping for the best. This is where being treated by an experienced, medically qualified injector counts. It's not only about the ingredient in the syringe, it's about the hands placing it.

Downtime, aftercare and building your results

Recovery from polynucleotides is refreshingly straightforward. The pinpoint marks, redness and any small bumps generally calm down within twenty four to forty eight hours. To get the most from your treatment and reduce the chance of irritation, there are a few sensible things to observe in the first couple of days.

• Skip strenuous exercise, hot baths, saunas and steam rooms for around 48 hours, since heat and heavy sweating can aggravate the treated area.
• Keep the skin clean and well moisturised with gentle products, and avoid heavy makeup on the day of treatment where you can.
• Protect the area from direct sun and stay off sunbeds for several days, and make daily SPF a permanent habit to protect the collagen you're building.

Results are a slower burn than filler, and that's by design. You may notice the skin looking fresher and more hydrated within the first couple of weeks, but the real change comes as new collagen and elastin develop. Most people see meaningful improvement in texture, firmness and brightness from around four to six weeks, with the fuller effect settling in over roughly twelve weeks.

Because polynucleotides start a biological process rather than depositing a permanent substance, they're almost always recommended as a short course. A typical plan is two to four sessions spaced a few weeks apart, often three sessions around four weeks apart. Each session builds on the last, which is why I see the strongest results after the second and third appointments. Once you've completed a course, the improvement generally holds for somewhere between six and twelve months, and a maintenance session once or twice a year keeps things ticking along nicely.

Common questions about polynucleotides

Are polynucleotides suitable for me?

They suit most healthy adults who want to improve skin quality rather than change facial structure. They're a strong choice for tired under-eyes, dull or dehydrated skin, early fine lines and skin that's lost some of its bounce. As with any injectable treatment, they aren't appropriate during pregnancy or breastfeeding, or if you have certain active skin infections or medical conditions, which is exactly what your consultation is there to check.

Do polynucleotides hurt?

Discomfort is usually minimal. Numbing cream takes the edge off, and most patients describe the injections as small, quick stings. The under-eye area is more sensitive than most, but it's brief and very manageable for the vast majority of people.

How are they different from Profhilo?

Both are injectable skin-quality treatments that avoid adding volume, and they're sometimes confused. Profhilo is a highly concentrated hyaluronic acid that spreads through the tissue to deliver striking hydration and a bio-remodelling effect. Polynucleotides lean more heavily into cellular repair, regeneration and calming inflammation, which is part of why they're such a favourite for thin, delicate or compromised skin like the under-eye. I'll advise which fits your skin best, and in some cases they complement one another.

Can I combine polynucleotides with other treatments?

Yes, and they're often at their best in combination. In the reel, I paired them with microneedling and exosomes to amplify collagen stimulation and skin renewal. Polynucleotides also sit comfortably alongside anti-wrinkle injections and, when appropriate, fillers, since each addresses a different aspect of how skin looks and ages. Any combination plan will be tailored to you at your appointment.

How soon will I see results?

Expect early improvements in hydration and freshness within the first two to three weeks, with firmer, brighter, smoother skin developing from around four to six weeks and continuing to improve up to about twelve weeks as new collagen matures.

Ready to see what your own skin can do?

Polynucleotides are one of the treatments I find most rewarding, precisely because the results look like nothing more than good health. If tired under-eyes, dark circles or a persistent dullness have been bothering you, a consultation is the right first step. I'll assess your skin properly and talk you through whether polynucleotides, alone or in combination, are the way to get you there.

You'll find us in Cobham, Esher and Wimbledon. Get in touch to book a consultation with me, and let's talk about restoring your skin's natural radiance.