How to Adjust Your Skincare for Winter: A Cold-Weather Routine That Keeps Skin Hydrated and Glowing

There's a particular kind of confusion British skin feels in winter. One hour you're walking into gorgeous low sunshine, the next it's freezing, the wind has picked up, and you've stepped indoors into blasting central heating. Your skin is trying to keep pace with all of it. And when it can't, you tend to notice: tightness after cleansing, flaky patches that catch on makeup, a dullness that no amount of highlighter fixes, and sometimes breakouts that seem to come from nowhere.

The good news is that most of this is preventable. It usually isn't a sign that your products have stopped working. It's a sign that a routine built for warmer, more humid months is now a little too strong for the season. Cold air holds less moisture, heating strips more of it away, and the skin barrier that copes beautifully in June starts to struggle by November.

So the aim in winter isn't to overhaul everything. It's to make a few considered tweaks: ease off the ingredients that can be drying, and lean into hydration and barrier support. Below is how I think about that at Wellface, along with the products I reach for when the temperature drops.

Why winter changes what your skin needs

Skin relies on a healthy barrier, the outermost layer of lipids and cells that locks water in and keeps irritants out. When that barrier is intact, skin looks plump and reflects light evenly, which is what we all recognise as glow. When it's compromised, water escapes more quickly, the surface becomes rough, and light scatters instead of bouncing back. That's the dull, tired look so many people describe in the colder months.

Winter chips away at the barrier from several directions at once. Cold outdoor air is naturally low in humidity, so it draws moisture out of the skin. Indoor heating does the same thing, creating a dry environment that quietly dehydrates you all day and all night. Add the temperature swings of stepping in and out of buildings, hot showers that feel wonderful but strip natural oils, and the wind that literally roughens the surface, and it's easy to see why sensitive, reactive skin becomes more common from November onwards.

The mistake many people make is pushing harder when their skin looks less bright, layering on more actives or exfoliating more aggressively to chase back the glow. In winter that often backfires. A compromised barrier can't tolerate the same intensity, and the irritation shows up as redness, stinging and, frustratingly, breakouts. The more effective approach is to reduce the load and rebuild.

Ease back on tretinoin

Tretinoin is one of the most effective ingredients in skincare. It's a prescription-strength retinoid that speeds up cell turnover, supports collagen and keeps pores clear, which is exactly why it does so much for texture, fine lines and blemishes. It also has a well-known side effect: dryness and flaking, especially while skin is adjusting to it.

In summer, when the air is more humid and your barrier has more support, you might tolerate a higher strength comfortably. In winter, that same strength can tip you into irritation. So the simple move is to come down a level for the colder months. If you're using 0.1%, dropping to 0.05% often makes all the difference. If you're on 0.05%, stepping down to 0.025% keeps the benefits coming without the winter dryness. If you're already at a low strength, reducing how many nights a week you apply it can achieve the same thing.

The point isn't to abandon your retinoid. It's to keep using it at a level your skin can handle right now, so you stay on track through winter rather than stopping and starting. Because tretinoin is prescription-only, it's worth having this conversation with one of our doctors rather than guessing. I can look at how your skin is behaving and build a bespoke plan, then step you back up as the weather improves in spring.

Choose a gentler vitamin C

Vitamin C is the workhorse antioxidant of a morning routine. It helps defend the skin against environmental damage, supports collagen and brightens over time, which is a big part of that lit-from-within look. But like any active, the strength that suits you can shift with the season.

Higher concentrations, in the region of 20%, are brilliant when your skin is robust and you want maximum antioxidant support against summer sun. In winter, when the barrier is already under pressure, a lower percentage is often kinder and just as worthwhile. Coming down from 20% to 15%, or from 15% to 10%, keeps the protective benefits while reducing the risk of stinging on skin that's feeling more reactive.

This is exactly the kind of seasonal rhythm I encourage: think of vitamin C as something you dial up for summer and dial down for winter, roughly twice a year. Ten to fifteen per cent through the colder months, back up to fifteen or twenty when the days lengthen. It's a small adjustment that most people forget to make, and it's one of the easiest ways to avoid unnecessary irritation.

Bring the hydration up

Here's the balancing act. As the strong actives come down, hydration comes up. This is where winter routines really earn their keep, and where you'll see the biggest difference in comfort and glow.

Layer a barrier-supporting serum

A good hydrating serum sits under your moisturiser and does the quiet work of topping up water in the skin and reinforcing the barrier. One I particularly like for this is the Obagi Elastiderm serum, which layers neatly beneath a cream moisturiser and gives skin an extra cushion of hydration and protection. Think of it as an added defence against the winter wind, keeping the surface supple so it's less likely to crack, flake or feel tight. Applied to slightly damp skin and then sealed with moisturiser, a serum like this helps hold onto moisture rather than letting it evaporate into the dry air.

Reach for a richer night cream

The lightweight gel-cream that felt perfect in July often isn't enough by December. Overnight is when your skin does most of its repair, and winter is the time to give it a richer, more occlusive cream that genuinely engulfs the skin and holds moisture in while you sleep. A thick night cream forms a comforting layer that means you wake up to skin that feels soft and looks plumper, rather than tight and dehydrated. If your daytime moisturiser is coping fine, you can simply upgrade the night step and leave the rest as it is.

The all-year favourite

Not everything is seasonal. Some products are worth using twelve months of the year, and a revitalising serum from Dr Suzan Obagi's line is one our team reaches for regardless of the weather. Products like this earn a permanent place in a routine because they support skin quality across the board rather than solving one seasonal problem, which is why you'll hear me say I use it all year round.

Small habits that protect winter skin

Products do a lot, but a few everyday habits make them work harder. Turn the temperature of your showers and cleansing water down; very hot water feels lovely on a cold morning but strips the oils that keep skin protected. Keep cleansing gentle and avoid over-washing, since a squeaky-clean feeling usually means you've removed too much. Don't drop your SPF just because the sun has gone: UV is present year round, and daily sunscreen remains part of a healthy morning routine even in grey weather.

It's also worth resisting the urge to exfoliate your way out of dullness. When skin looks flat in winter, the instinct is often to scrub or add acids, but if the barrier is already stressed that tends to make things worse. Focus on hydration and gentle care first, and let the glow return as the barrier recovers. If you use heating heavily at home, a humidifier in the bedroom can quietly help too.

Common questions about winter skincare

Do I really need to change my routine, or can I keep using the same products?

You don't need to replace everything, and for some people the summer routine works fine. But if you're noticing tightness, flaking, redness or breakouts as the weather turns, those are signs your skin is asking for less active intensity and more hydration. Small tweaks usually resolve it without starting from scratch.

Why am I breaking out more in winter if my skin feels dry?

It sounds contradictory, but a compromised barrier can trigger both dryness and blemishes at once. When the surface is irritated and dehydrated, skin can become inflamed and more prone to breakouts. Pushing harder with strong actives often deepens the problem, whereas easing off and repairing the barrier tends to calm it down.

How do I know which strength of tretinoin or vitamin C is right for me?

It depends on your skin type, how long you've been using the ingredient and how your skin is coping right now. Because tretinoin is prescription-only and everyone's tolerance differs, this is best decided with a doctor rather than by guesswork. A short consultation lets me match the strength to the season and your skin.

When should I switch back to my summer routine?

As a rough guide, when the days lengthen and the air becomes less harsh, usually into spring, you can begin stepping your actives back up and lightening your moisturiser. Let your skin lead. If it's comfortable and no longer flaking, it's ready.

Get a winter routine built around your skin

Every face copes with the cold differently, so the smartest winter routine is one tailored to yours rather than a generic checklist. At Wellface, I can assess how your skin is responding to the season, adjust your prescription strengths safely, and recommend the hydrating serums, moisturisers and medical-grade products that will keep you comfortable and glowing until spring. If your skin has been feeling tight, dull or reactive lately, book a consultation with me at our Cobham, Esher or Wimbledon clinics and I'll put together a plan that suits you and the weather ahead.